Just a quickie about cutting out issue
Ralph
New member
Mine cut's out or stalls now and then it does it just as you touch the throttle as you set off it did it a few times in the first thousand miles then not again
till it had the battery lead recall it then did it twice on the way home now at 2600 miles it's not done it for the last 600 miles, I balanced the throttle body's
a few days back, they were very close to being spot on but decided to tweak them to dead right my instinct was don't bother but I did, anyway it has made
a difference it now picks up better from tick over the slight stumble that could turn into a stall as gone and the bike now runs smoother at low revs, it was
never bad but now it's just that bit better, I found myself running round in a higher gear than I would normally use, with no snatching or any sign of distress
from it, I will have to see how it goes but after a 55 mile ride I would say it's worth getting the throttle body sync as close as you can, time and miles will tell.
till it had the battery lead recall it then did it twice on the way home now at 2600 miles it's not done it for the last 600 miles, I balanced the throttle body's
a few days back, they were very close to being spot on but decided to tweak them to dead right my instinct was don't bother but I did, anyway it has made
a difference it now picks up better from tick over the slight stumble that could turn into a stall as gone and the bike now runs smoother at low revs, it was
never bad but now it's just that bit better, I found myself running round in a higher gear than I would normally use, with no snatching or any sign of distress
from it, I will have to see how it goes but after a 55 mile ride I would say it's worth getting the throttle body sync as close as you can, time and miles will tell.
da1kini
New member
i know i sound like a record stuck on repeat but the throttle body synd should be included in first service and many of ypu have not had that done. Seems a bir strange to me that a lot of pple with stalling issues somehow dont think this adjustment could help...
Ralph
New member
No you keep repeating I don't have any problem with that, maybe mine was done at service or at least checked
as I have worked in the bike trade and to be honest would have been more than satisfied with the sync before I
touched it they were so close any normal tec would have left well alone, it was well within the spec in the service
manual what surprised me was that I felt a difference, did not expect any as the adjustment was so small I have
done many bikes that were a long way out and no noticed a difference though I had a BMW R850R that liked
to be spot on.
sidrio's bike sounds like it may be something else, something intermittent electrical, problem with that is they are near
impossible to find unless they quit and stay quit.
as I have worked in the bike trade and to be honest would have been more than satisfied with the sync before I
touched it they were so close any normal tec would have left well alone, it was well within the spec in the service
manual what surprised me was that I felt a difference, did not expect any as the adjustment was so small I have
done many bikes that were a long way out and no noticed a difference though I had a BMW R850R that liked
to be spot on.
sidrio's bike sounds like it may be something else, something intermittent electrical, problem with that is they are near
impossible to find unless they quit and stay quit.
I've given up. Yamaha had it for a month and a half, sent it back with nothing solved. Still does it, but not as often as I know how to ride around it, having had almost a year to change my entire way of riding a bike. It does it once or twice a week, when I'm not paying 100% attention.
The clutch is fucked though. It slips and grinds. Unfortunately, as I have pestered them so much about the stalling, Motorcycle store in Shepherds bush are refusing to acknowledge any contact from me.
I may be in a minority here, but if you asked me if you should buy an MT07, I'd have to say no. In fact, as I have had effectively no warranty, I'd have to say you should think carefully about buying any Yamaha.
That's just me though.
The clutch is fucked though. It slips and grinds. Unfortunately, as I have pestered them so much about the stalling, Motorcycle store in Shepherds bush are refusing to acknowledge any contact from me.
I may be in a minority here, but if you asked me if you should buy an MT07, I'd have to say no. In fact, as I have had effectively no warranty, I'd have to say you should think carefully about buying any Yamaha.
That's just me though.
Ralph
New member
Don't blame you I would be getting rid as soon as if mine was the same.
Next bonus . . .
It's a shame, as it's not a bad bike in most ways. I'm more disappointed in the way I've been stonewalled than anything else. They know there is a problem, but they just insist there isn't.
Ho hum. Big corporations huh, what can ya do?
da1kini
New member
Agree that sdrios bike seems to be an unlucky version of what seems to be a otherwise well built bike. And for that I am deeply sorry for that exp is not something anyone should have to exp with a new bike.
But somehow the fact remains that the throttle body sync should be checked. And if corrected at first service, as should be done, the bike feels a lot better on many areas. Mine was slightly off, not much and I know that a lot of mechanics dont bother to check this at the service because most bikes are fine when they come of the assembly line, but a few are not. This check is a time consuming effort cause one need to remove a lot of screws, panels etc to attach the "gadget that meassure the sync thingy".
I don't think this would help in sdrios case but it seems a lot of other would benefit from at least trying to get it checked and synced...cause why not since they already payed for it
But somehow the fact remains that the throttle body sync should be checked. And if corrected at first service, as should be done, the bike feels a lot better on many areas. Mine was slightly off, not much and I know that a lot of mechanics dont bother to check this at the service because most bikes are fine when they come of the assembly line, but a few are not. This check is a time consuming effort cause one need to remove a lot of screws, panels etc to attach the "gadget that meassure the sync thingy".
I don't think this would help in sdrios case but it seems a lot of other would benefit from at least trying to get it checked and synced...cause why not since they already payed for it
Last edited:
Ralph
New member
Citizens Advice?
or more likely Trading Standards.
or more likely Trading Standards.
Last edited:
There are ways I could go after them, but to be honest it's all a lot of agro.
The dealer in is breach of their contract with me. I could go to court with it, but it's too late to give the thing back (I did actually put them on notice last October, but as usual they ignored it).
The only positive outcome would be that the dealer would be liable to compensate me. That wouldn't really do me much good, as I'd still have the bike. If I'd gone after them earlier, they might have been liable to replace the bike, but then it might have been another shitty one - there are plenty of problem ones around, I have (obviously) been keeping tabs on this.
It's not really worth the effort, and of course that's what they rely on.
tw586
New member
Sdrio,
your issues sound very similar to a problem i had with an engine i built for a rally car. (twin cam turbo 1.6 mazda) I know it is a car engine but the symptoms you describe are remarkably similar. the engine had two faults which by them selves would have been easy to find but both together compounded and masked at the same time.
first problem was a starter motor issue with a fault that generated a electrical noise when cranking this signal to noise ratio would interfere with the crank angle signal and corrupt data to the ECU.
the second was a ignition coil issue with one of its cylinders. the mazda also used coil on plug type, the coil is fine and tests perfect, but the insulator that travels down to the spark plug was degraded and would allow spark to fire through the insulator to the cylinder head. as the coil still fired the ecu would not logg a miss but the cylinder would not fire. the O2 sensor would see a slight rich mix and cut the fuel back. this with the corrupt data would cause stalling, as soon as the throttle moved off idle, mid range lean surge and stumble.
how to check. remove the coil and insulator from each cylinder and inspect the insulator, look for very tiny white dots or burns where the spark exits, you may require a powerful magnifying glass to find it. checking for signal to noise ratio is very hard to do, you will require an oscilloscope and monitor battery supply voltage and engine earth look at the electrical pattern when cranking and the noise should be less than the signal generated by the crank angle sensor. i would suggest a electrical engineer would have the skills and equipment to do this but a good mechanic working on late model European cars may also. or swap out with a known good starter motor, you could also try the push start the bike and not use the starter. to eliminate the issue.
I hope this helps
your issues sound very similar to a problem i had with an engine i built for a rally car. (twin cam turbo 1.6 mazda) I know it is a car engine but the symptoms you describe are remarkably similar. the engine had two faults which by them selves would have been easy to find but both together compounded and masked at the same time.
first problem was a starter motor issue with a fault that generated a electrical noise when cranking this signal to noise ratio would interfere with the crank angle signal and corrupt data to the ECU.
the second was a ignition coil issue with one of its cylinders. the mazda also used coil on plug type, the coil is fine and tests perfect, but the insulator that travels down to the spark plug was degraded and would allow spark to fire through the insulator to the cylinder head. as the coil still fired the ecu would not logg a miss but the cylinder would not fire. the O2 sensor would see a slight rich mix and cut the fuel back. this with the corrupt data would cause stalling, as soon as the throttle moved off idle, mid range lean surge and stumble.
how to check. remove the coil and insulator from each cylinder and inspect the insulator, look for very tiny white dots or burns where the spark exits, you may require a powerful magnifying glass to find it. checking for signal to noise ratio is very hard to do, you will require an oscilloscope and monitor battery supply voltage and engine earth look at the electrical pattern when cranking and the noise should be less than the signal generated by the crank angle sensor. i would suggest a electrical engineer would have the skills and equipment to do this but a good mechanic working on late model European cars may also. or swap out with a known good starter motor, you could also try the push start the bike and not use the starter. to eliminate the issue.
I hope this helps