spoonflames
New member
So is this the L3X?found this here for £380 for full system
Great price
Exhaust Ixil BLACK Hyperlow Dual Exit Full system Yamaha MT07 - Jesters Trick Bits Limited
IXIL Exhaust
- Thread starter neal2000uk
- Start date
MrSquidbeak
New member
Your have to stick a vid up once you have got it, as i think this is the exhaust ill be going for too
MrSquidbeak
New member
Yes i think soSo is this the L3X?
sven11
New member
No problem, didn't order yet. I am waiting for confirmation on the silver type. Could be around 280eur
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jeppebm
Moderator
Ill upload proper video for you in 20 mins
Last edited:
Some more Ixil L3X sound video to help with those trying to decide what to choose from.
I will do a drive by at a later date
Ixil L3X hyperlow db baffles & cat has been removed, this may be to loud for some.
Use headphones for better sound.
Sound level cause abit of mic distortion on the camera.
I will do a drive by at a later date
Ixil L3X hyperlow db baffles & cat has been removed, this may be to loud for some.
Use headphones for better sound.
Sound level cause abit of mic distortion on the camera.
Last edited:
jeppebm
Moderator
it sure does make a lot of noise! - Ive been enabled to take em in and out - but bot Catalyzator and db killers is required by law here in Denmark, and quite frankly - i found it noise as it is, i wouldnt enjoy having them taken out for 3 hour drive, my hearing would be damaged by then
jeppebm
Moderator
Here it is explained .. and im pretty sure the limit is 100db here in Denmark.
And those things they compare to, im pretty sure the IXIL makes up to a 100db with baffles in. So without must be plus 120db - which is recommended nothing more than a duration of 30 secs.
So im good
And those things they compare to, im pretty sure the IXIL makes up to a 100db with baffles in. So without must be plus 120db - which is recommended nothing more than a duration of 30 secs.
So im good
Well then hearing aid will be next on order. With the helmet on it does not seem that load unless I am deaf already.
The DB rating from 2 places registered 101 which is 1 over for NZ.
So I will have to keep it low; the option of putting in the DB baffle is good.
Competing with the Harley guys.
The DB rating from 2 places registered 101 which is 1 over for NZ.
So I will have to keep it low; the option of putting in the DB baffle is good.
Competing with the Harley guys.
Ixil
Hi!
I bought the IXIL Hyperlow X3L in December but today I finally got the chance to fit it on my bike. I couldn't get it fitted. Could someone please post detailed photos/instructions where to screw it in place? The exhaust hits the rear swing when trying to put it in the same holes as the original one was. And the original exhaust had some copper(?) seals or gaskets on the header, should i use these on the IXIL also? AND on top of these things, the lambda sensors wire is kinda short for it to fit in the hole on the exhaust. And when trying to fit the muffle in the original exhaust holes, there seems to be left a gap between the header and muffle (where these two connects and should be tightened with the metal hoop/band)..
Please all help will be welcomed!
Hi!
I bought the IXIL Hyperlow X3L in December but today I finally got the chance to fit it on my bike. I couldn't get it fitted. Could someone please post detailed photos/instructions where to screw it in place? The exhaust hits the rear swing when trying to put it in the same holes as the original one was. And the original exhaust had some copper(?) seals or gaskets on the header, should i use these on the IXIL also? AND on top of these things, the lambda sensors wire is kinda short for it to fit in the hole on the exhaust. And when trying to fit the muffle in the original exhaust holes, there seems to be left a gap between the header and muffle (where these two connects and should be tightened with the metal hoop/band)..
Please all help will be welcomed!
da1kini
New member
This forum member have fitted in november last year! Maybe he knows
http://www.motorcycle-talk.net/forum/members/jeppebm/
A few things guys.
1. You must reuse the copper header gaskets. I have read mixed impressions of this in that some people say they are a one time use crush gasket and others say that they basically last forever.
If you really want to play it safe, install new ones with your new header.
2. After you've removed your factory exhaust, the hanger with the rubber bushing on the RIGHT side of the bike (exhaust side) is where you will want to bolt the hanger on the can. You simply put the cone shaped washer over the head of the screw, push it through from LEFT to RIGHT if the bike is facing headlight forward. Once you've pushed the screw through the rubber bushing in the exhaust hanger, go ahead and hang your can from the screw. You then take your bolt and torque the bad boy down. In case you didnt know, you will need to remove your footbrake assembly. Not entirely, but just the two screws holding it on so that you can move it out of the way to access the hanger.
3. You need to make sure that your header is properly installed, ie straight in order for the can to have swing arm clearance. Where my header tube naturally sat, i had an inch of clearance for the can.
4. There are no torque specs for the bolts so make sure that they're all very tight. I used blue loctite on the exhaust hanger bolt to ensure that vibration would not loosen anything.
5. Use high temp RTV silicone sealant between the can and the header tube and make sure you TORQUE the CRAP out of that hose clamp. I was just involved in a lowside crash this week, exhaust side down and when i picked my bike up, my exhaust can was loose from having taken the brunt of the fall. It was loose at the hose clamp side but i was able to get the bike home with no issues. I torqued everything up again and all was well in the world.
Sorry for the lack of torque specs but IXIL usa had nothing for me when i gave them a ring.
When i get my bike back i can take pictures of everything.
1. You must reuse the copper header gaskets. I have read mixed impressions of this in that some people say they are a one time use crush gasket and others say that they basically last forever.
If you really want to play it safe, install new ones with your new header.
2. After you've removed your factory exhaust, the hanger with the rubber bushing on the RIGHT side of the bike (exhaust side) is where you will want to bolt the hanger on the can. You simply put the cone shaped washer over the head of the screw, push it through from LEFT to RIGHT if the bike is facing headlight forward. Once you've pushed the screw through the rubber bushing in the exhaust hanger, go ahead and hang your can from the screw. You then take your bolt and torque the bad boy down. In case you didnt know, you will need to remove your footbrake assembly. Not entirely, but just the two screws holding it on so that you can move it out of the way to access the hanger.
3. You need to make sure that your header is properly installed, ie straight in order for the can to have swing arm clearance. Where my header tube naturally sat, i had an inch of clearance for the can.
4. There are no torque specs for the bolts so make sure that they're all very tight. I used blue loctite on the exhaust hanger bolt to ensure that vibration would not loosen anything.
5. Use high temp RTV silicone sealant between the can and the header tube and make sure you TORQUE the CRAP out of that hose clamp. I was just involved in a lowside crash this week, exhaust side down and when i picked my bike up, my exhaust can was loose from having taken the brunt of the fall. It was loose at the hose clamp side but i was able to get the bike home with no issues. I torqued everything up again and all was well in the world.
Sorry for the lack of torque specs but IXIL usa had nothing for me when i gave them a ring.
When i get my bike back i can take pictures of everything.
Okay, so I didn't read your message before todays session with the exhaust. BUT I got the exhaust nicely in place with putting some washers to give the muffle some space from the rear swing (the screw from left to right , does it even matter?). And while i adjusted the header and muffle i got the gap between them tightened up. But i was just wondering how do you make SURE that your header isn't leaking from the top of the header where it is attached to the cylinderhead? I just ran the engine to it's usage temperature (91 degrees celsius) and checked that there was no smoke/fluid leaking from the joint. But I am just wondering because there is a tapping sound when you listen close to the header. Here's a few pictures.
Last edited:
Incense...no, im not kidding.
Turn the bike on, light some incense under the bike and let the smoke filter up to the header gasket area. IF you see the smoke being displaced by jets of air from the area where it should be sealed...you have a leak.
If you smoke...well..just blow the smoke onto the header area, its that much easier. It almost makes me want to start smoking!
Good luck bud. Your bolts look adequately torqued so you should be good to go.
Turn the bike on, light some incense under the bike and let the smoke filter up to the header gasket area. IF you see the smoke being displaced by jets of air from the area where it should be sealed...you have a leak.
If you smoke...well..just blow the smoke onto the header area, its that much easier. It almost makes me want to start smoking!
Good luck bud. Your bolts look adequately torqued so you should be good to go.
To see if there are any leaks in the exhaust , you can close off the exhaust with your hands ( or a cloth if it's to hot ) while the engine is turning .
If there is a leak you will hear it . Normally you should be able to shut down the engine this way before the pressure forces your exhaust to leak .
If there is a leak you will hear it . Normally you should be able to shut down the engine this way before the pressure forces your exhaust to leak .