Hi Gaz2212,You already have the connector on the bike you just need the terminals and the seals to complete the connection.
Hey. So what will this do exactly? What equipment can use the DC Aux thingybob? Presumably you can't charge a USB device off it? or can you?Hi Gaz2212,
do you think this link:
10 KIT 2 VIE CONNETTORE IMPERMEABILE 1,5mm PER AUTO SCOOTER: Amazon.it: Auto e Moto
will do the job?
very cheap, less tan 1 € each...
Guess just replacing the connector for another one is most easy in the end.
Got myself these from eBay (to create a connector for more easy battery charging): 5 Kit 2 Pins Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug | eBay
I just wired my Oxford grips to the battery, not worrying about a relay or switched power.FWIW, I didn't use it at all when I plumbed my heated grips in. I put the - straight onto the negative battery terminal, then spliced the positive into the + wire to the back light, logic being it switches off when I switch the bike off. The grips have their own inline fuse anyway.
Probably wouldn't want to do that with anything too power hungry, but a couple of amps should be fine. I've done the same thing on several bikes, and in 5 years have never blown a fuse.
To be fair, the proper way to do it is to use a relay but I just thought that was overkill.
I believe they've changed the system, was probably you that gave us the run through of it - the older ones would knack the battery if left on, but now they are a bit smarter and can tell when the bike isn't running.I just wired my Oxford grips to the battery, not worrying about a relay or switched power.
No problem with them draining the battery so far, and not at all worried about the electrical system.
Yeah that makes a difference. I got mine in September last year.I believe they've changed the system, was probably you that gave us the run through of it - the older ones would knack the battery if left on, but now they are a bit smarter and can tell when the bike isn't running.
The ones I use are the lite (scooter?) ones, as the full version has an electronic controller, and on the ones I had that controller stopped working. The lite ones have a simple rocker switch, and just as importantly cost half as much!
I'm not sure they'd have any autosensing capability, so they probably need to be wired to an ignition activated circuit. I'm glad to know Oxford got that sorted though, the old ones were sold as 'auto off when low voltage sensed', but in fact would drain the battery well past the point you could start the bike before they tripped.