If this is the case and accidents do happen then there is definitely a cause for concern as this is a first service requirement by Yamaha and if this is not being carried out then I can see a case of negligence being brought to the offending mechanics/dealers, I would hate to think that an injury or worse death occurred because of some LAZY mechanic not doing thier job. FOOD FOR THOUGHT.On 1 st service , make sure they check the body throttle sync. Seems a lot of mechanics skip that part cause they are lazy
Engine cuts off when the clutch lever pulled in
- Thread starter Artem
- Start date
Larskiainen
New member
Last week my bike had its first service and we talked about this cut off issue. He said that some MT-07 have wrong syncs (he didn't said cheked my bike sync but I assumed he did) but after my first service this cut off didn't went away. Now about 1200km in gauge and before service it cutted off 5 times and after service 3-4 times. One close call happened when turning tight left in parking lot about 5kmh and it stalled, just managed to keep my bike upright with my reflexes and strenght :sly:
The best motorcyclist is the living one.
The best motorcyclist is the living one.
da1kini
New member
They SHOULD check the sync, go back and make them do it and show them the service manual...
When they stamp your service book that should mean that ALL the requirements by Yamaha in the first 600 mile service schedule should have been carried out, this means that either mechanics are not doing there job or there is a serious problem with some MT-07s and Yamaha need to address it. My advice would be for everyone who has experienced this pre and post 600 service should contact Yamaha. If they don't know there's a problem they can't fix it.
They know there's a problem, they have been told. The dealers know about it, the people at the Yamaha road show knew about it, people in (to my knowledge) the UK, France, Spain, Belgium, Germany, Greece, the USA and South Africa have reported it to Yamaha. It has been mentioned in at least two press reviews of the bike.
It has been reported to VOSA by several owners, and I believe the same has been done in the USA.
The only direct reaction I have seen from Yamaha is that their staff and press fleet have not had any problems. That was from an email I got from Yamaha UK.
Most of this is in this thread. It's a long read, I know, but it's all there.
Gaz2212
New member
2 questions
da1kini, have you had this problem and if so did it stop after you had the throttle body sync done
Secondly, I sympathise with you all out there who have had this problem, if I had suffered with this and dealers and the manufacturer are clearly not taking the problem seriously, I would be returning the bike under the sale of goods act as not fit for purpose and walk away with full refund in hand.
As much as we all love the bike if it becomes a safety issue is it really worth it.
da1kini, have you had this problem and if so did it stop after you had the throttle body sync done
Secondly, I sympathise with you all out there who have had this problem, if I had suffered with this and dealers and the manufacturer are clearly not taking the problem seriously, I would be returning the bike under the sale of goods act as not fit for purpose and walk away with full refund in hand.
As much as we all love the bike if it becomes a safety issue is it really worth it.
dazzor
New member
This.
Should finally get my matt grey in 3/4 weeks. If I have this issue beyond a reasonable margin then back it goes. To me this isn't the customer being a fussbudget, this is a fundamental failing and potentially dangerous one too.
I've decided to buy a new bike, (haven't bought brand new since 1996!) because I want some manufacturers warranty....for Yamaha to be playing dumb is both worrying and annoying.
I need a reliable commuter, the "fun" bit is secondary for me.....there's plenty of proven machines out there I can pick up used with a bit warranty still left on them.
....I wonder if Honda will bring out a light, agile budget twin soon?
the NC is clearly aimed at a different market
Ralph
New member
Mine was doing it when hot, mostly in traffic after a stop were the engine was shut off from hot for a few min then
restarted, it would sometimes but rarely cut out just as you gave it a touch of throttle to set off or a little blip when changing down at
low revs, I explained this to the dealer and they logged it on the computer, nothing was found by diagnostics
not expected as it did not show a FI code when it stopped.
Service done all boxes were ticked and they said they had investigated but fund nothing, new semi synth oil
and filter, it's now done 200 miles without a cut I suspect if it does it again it will stop doing it as it gets more
miles frees up and runs cooler, it seems to be running cooler after the oil change even though I am using more
revs, will post if it stops again.
restarted, it would sometimes but rarely cut out just as you gave it a touch of throttle to set off or a little blip when changing down at
low revs, I explained this to the dealer and they logged it on the computer, nothing was found by diagnostics
not expected as it did not show a FI code when it stopped.
Service done all boxes were ticked and they said they had investigated but fund nothing, new semi synth oil
and filter, it's now done 200 miles without a cut I suspect if it does it again it will stop doing it as it gets more
miles frees up and runs cooler, it seems to be running cooler after the oil change even though I am using more
revs, will post if it stops again.
da1kini
New member
No I did not have or do have the problem SDRIO and others had BUT my bike run a whole lot better after first service and my bikes sync was way off. And I can't say if that sync can fix the stalling problem but I think it is worth a try. Seems a lot of mechanics in other countries in Europe are skipping that diagnostic part
My guess is that if you bring your bike to a dealer and explain it is stalling and they adress Yamaha about it. The first thing Yamaha is gonna as is if they checked the sync or not.
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I 'm encountering the same problem here..
The moto is stalling a lot..
Even with the cluch pulled in fully, it stalls..
The mechanic has adjucted idle rpms but still the problem occurs.. very often..
The moto has only 120 klm and it stalls since day one..
Has anyone sort out this problem?
Is it the injectors?
Is there any solution, cause i 'm getting frustrated here..
The moto is stalling a lot..
Even with the cluch pulled in fully, it stalls..
The mechanic has adjucted idle rpms but still the problem occurs.. very often..
The moto has only 120 klm and it stalls since day one..
Has anyone sort out this problem?
Is it the injectors?
Is there any solution, cause i 'm getting frustrated here..
DeadHead
Member
My bike was running low on fuel, 27miles into the reserve tank, parked it up to open the garage, as i was walking towards garage the engine just shut off. i thought maybe it had run out of fuel? a shake of the bike i could hear it sloshing around, then i thought could it be because the bike was on it's stand the fuel was not filtering through?
I eventually ruled out fuel because surely it would have spluttered before it cut out and the following day I managed to get 12.3 litres into the bike so it still had over a litre left.
The bike had only been left to run for barely a minute before it cut out. Other than that the only thing I can think of is it might be down to the weather, the rain was very heavy at the time.
I eventually ruled out fuel because surely it would have spluttered before it cut out and the following day I managed to get 12.3 litres into the bike so it still had over a litre left.
The bike had only been left to run for barely a minute before it cut out. Other than that the only thing I can think of is it might be down to the weather, the rain was very heavy at the time.
I don't think that's the same problem. Mine has done that when very low on fuel, and on the sidestand. I think that's probably just the level of the fuel falling below wherever the fuel comes out from the tank while it's leant over. As soon as I stood it up, same as you, it started fine.
Ralph
New member
Even when I ran mine out of fuel I did not get 14 ltrs in so the tank is smaller than
advertised or more likely there is fuel in the bottom that cant be used.
Talking to the service manager and 2 tec's the other day about stalling and they
mentioned that when the clutch is pulled in it retards the ignition timing so
it is possible that the clutch adjustment as some bearing on the stalling, this
seems to be the case with some Suzuki models, not had chance to experiment yet
though, and a number of MT owners have reported the bikes being delivered with
the clutch switch disconnected.
advertised or more likely there is fuel in the bottom that cant be used.
Talking to the service manager and 2 tec's the other day about stalling and they
mentioned that when the clutch is pulled in it retards the ignition timing so
it is possible that the clutch adjustment as some bearing on the stalling, this
seems to be the case with some Suzuki models, not had chance to experiment yet
though, and a number of MT owners have reported the bikes being delivered with
the clutch switch disconnected.
Larskiainen
New member
First 1500km were a big dissapointment for me because bike stalled several times (~10). Now 3000km driven and not a single one cut-out after 1500km. Few missfires but no stalling. I'm curious to see what happens in next 1500km...
CVSensei
New member
Have there been any updates on this from Yamaha? I'm getting mine next month and this has me really worried!
Ok read the whole lot and here are some points:
1: With modern fuel injected bikes ( and cars including diesels) when you switch on the ignition and start the bike DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. One of the things that happens at start up is that the Throttle position sensor/s get a fully closed point voltage set. That effects ALL subsequent throttle action until the bike is switched off. Let it idle a short while ( while you put you gloves/helmet on) . Then you can use the throttle. The throttle blip is a hang over from carb engines especially those with acceleration pumps.
2. First thought it could be a clutch/sidestand circuit issue until I saw the video. Watched and rewatched and the rider bilps the throttle BUT the throttle is closed when it seems to blip itself and then die. That could be a leaning out and/or advancing of the spark as both will do that without moving the throttle. That is the most telling thing in this whole thread. Still could be clutch-ecu related, but only if the clutch engine cutout is ECU based and not the usual ( and cheaper and reliable) double diode cutout circuit. .
3. There is 32 pages of complaints about the this same issue. It exists. You might want to mention that to the dealer . 32 pages on the same problem from all over the world. I haven't had the problem ...yet... but I have the Australian insult model so the ecu and motor is different. Didn't notice any other Aus posts so maybe not a problem here or I just missed the posts.
4. The BMW 800cc twin has a stalling issue but it is superlean fuelling issue. Fixed by boosterplug or better still permanently fixed by Power commander. I have a BMWF800R and it is fixed. TR650 also has the problem, exactly the same but the ECU is a Magnetti instead of a Bosch. Fixed by booster plug for a while but the ecu is smart enough to relearn to fuel it "correctly". I , by coincidence, also have one of these. It was fixed permanently by power commander. This appears to be a different problem because of the throttle self rise before it dies though could still be 14.7:1 AFR related.
5. On a completely different tack but still fuel related, If you are using 98 RON fuel from some oil companies, it will cause stalling and often hard starting. In Australia BP 98 is designed for turbo and supercharged motors. As such the activation energy required to get it to burn properly is too high. Contrary to common belief higher octane rating DOES NOT give you more power. If properly jetted ( afr adjusted) over-octane fuel will just burn too slow and more fuel will remain unburnt to give you full power. That's right the higher the octane, the slower it burns at the same pressure. This is particularly noticeable at low cyl pressures such as idle and low throttle opening. Probably not the problem here but if you are having the problem I strongly suggest lower octane rating if you are using above higher grade. 98RON is about 94AKI and 90MON . I wouldn't put higher that 95RON 90aki and 85MON. If fact in the Aus model, with it's lower compression, it may be better to stick to std fuel (91RON).
1: With modern fuel injected bikes ( and cars including diesels) when you switch on the ignition and start the bike DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. One of the things that happens at start up is that the Throttle position sensor/s get a fully closed point voltage set. That effects ALL subsequent throttle action until the bike is switched off. Let it idle a short while ( while you put you gloves/helmet on) . Then you can use the throttle. The throttle blip is a hang over from carb engines especially those with acceleration pumps.
2. First thought it could be a clutch/sidestand circuit issue until I saw the video. Watched and rewatched and the rider bilps the throttle BUT the throttle is closed when it seems to blip itself and then die. That could be a leaning out and/or advancing of the spark as both will do that without moving the throttle. That is the most telling thing in this whole thread. Still could be clutch-ecu related, but only if the clutch engine cutout is ECU based and not the usual ( and cheaper and reliable) double diode cutout circuit. .
3. There is 32 pages of complaints about the this same issue. It exists. You might want to mention that to the dealer . 32 pages on the same problem from all over the world. I haven't had the problem ...yet... but I have the Australian insult model so the ecu and motor is different. Didn't notice any other Aus posts so maybe not a problem here or I just missed the posts.
4. The BMW 800cc twin has a stalling issue but it is superlean fuelling issue. Fixed by boosterplug or better still permanently fixed by Power commander. I have a BMWF800R and it is fixed. TR650 also has the problem, exactly the same but the ECU is a Magnetti instead of a Bosch. Fixed by booster plug for a while but the ecu is smart enough to relearn to fuel it "correctly". I , by coincidence, also have one of these. It was fixed permanently by power commander. This appears to be a different problem because of the throttle self rise before it dies though could still be 14.7:1 AFR related.
5. On a completely different tack but still fuel related, If you are using 98 RON fuel from some oil companies, it will cause stalling and often hard starting. In Australia BP 98 is designed for turbo and supercharged motors. As such the activation energy required to get it to burn properly is too high. Contrary to common belief higher octane rating DOES NOT give you more power. If properly jetted ( afr adjusted) over-octane fuel will just burn too slow and more fuel will remain unburnt to give you full power. That's right the higher the octane, the slower it burns at the same pressure. This is particularly noticeable at low cyl pressures such as idle and low throttle opening. Probably not the problem here but if you are having the problem I strongly suggest lower octane rating if you are using above higher grade. 98RON is about 94AKI and 90MON . I wouldn't put higher that 95RON 90aki and 85MON. If fact in the Aus model, with it's lower compression, it may be better to stick to std fuel (91RON).
Ralph
New member
Been In my local dealer today they now seem acknowledge that some bikes have a stalling problem. They have one coming in that does it and are going to have a good go at sorting it, if they find a fix they are going to let me know so I can bring mine in about 2 weeks before I call again so I will keep you all informed how things go.
Mine is actually rarely doing it now. I'm not sure if it's because I'm riding it differently, or something has changed. It still does the cough from time to time, but hardly ever actually stalls.
I've had to develop a few weird routines to ride this thing. In the mornings before I start riding I have to hold the front brake, give it a handful and let the clutch out a bit so it can slip and judder. Then it doesn't do it when I'm actually on the move.
I'd be interested to know if they find anything wrong with yours though.