Cracked engine - leaking oil

[addy]

You mean from Yamaha's point of view? Like whether they want to help out that dealer?

Because surely the dealer doesn't have the final say on it, purely up to Yamaha right?

Doesn't feel that way every time I have taken my bike in to get something looked at, I have to first of all listen to the many excuses the dealer can pull out their ass as to why its my fault before they will finally agree to take it in and send pictures and "their" report to Yamaha. So it seems like the dealer has more of a say than they should.

 

[CVSensei]

Maybe I'm just lucky then. Or maybe that's just a particularly sketchy dealer? Perhaps they're worried some blame is going to be placed on them for the fault.

Might also be some sort of quota involved..

 

[shadowmonkey]

Update:

Yamaha accepted my warranty claim and a new sump is in the post!! HUZZAHHHH!!!

You guys had me convinced they were dishonorable swines

So fitting the new sump, my Zard Full System and a HID, happy days indeed.

Great to hear that it's getting sorted!
Some dealers can be dishonest, could be that Yamaha is paying a lot out to get the sump fixed so the dealer thought what the hell get a few extra penny's in for an easy job! Well that my 2cents anyway lol [emoji106]

 

[sdrio]

Maybe I'm just lucky then. Or maybe that's just a particularly sketchy dealer? Perhaps they're worried some blame is going to be placed on them for the fault.

Might also be some sort of quota involved..

I had no support whatsoever from my dealer when I had stalling problems with mine. It spent 2 of it's first 6 months off the road, and the dealer didn't give a toss, and in the end refused to respond to me.

It also has a problem with the clutch, which I asked them to look at twice when it was in for the stalling problem, and they never did. It still has the problem.

And Yamaha's reaction to all this? Meh, whatever. There's nothing wrong with it, fuck off.

It's the last Yamaha I'll ever buy.

 

[CVSensei]

I had no support whatsoever from my dealer when I had stalling problems with mine. It spent 2 of it's first 6 months off the road, and the dealer didn't give a toss, and in the end refused to respond to me.

It also has a problem with the clutch, which I asked them to look at twice when it was in for the stalling problem, and they never did. It still has the problem.

And Yamaha's reaction to all this? Meh, whatever. There's nothing wrong with it, fuck off.

It's the last Yamaha I'll ever buy.

Did you ever get video footage of it cutting out? It's just I imagine that's the only way you could ever prove it..

It's all well and good saying 'x amount of people I know on this forum have the same problem, honest guv' but they're not just going to take your word for it, especially when it could be a potential recall.

And we both know that it will never happen if you get them to test ride it

 

[CVSensei]

Buy a Dragster 800RR problem solved

 

[addy]

Did you ever get video footage of it cutting out? It's just I imagine that's the only way you could ever prove it..

It's all well and good saying 'x amount of people I know on this forum have the same problem, honest guv' but they're not just going to take your word for it, especially when it could be a potential recall.

And we both know that it will never happen if you get them to test ride it

I uploaded a couple videos showing my bike stalling and when I went to the dealer for the 3rd time about it I was told "we cant look at videos", asked why and was just told "cause we cant"....

 

[sdrio]

Did you ever get video footage of it cutting out? It's just I imagine that's the only way you could ever prove it..

It's all well and good saying 'x amount of people I know on this forum have the same problem, honest guv' but they're not just going to take your word for it, especially when it could be a potential recall.

And we both know that it will never happen if you get them to test ride it

No video. I did get the mechanic at the shop telling me the dodgy clutch was due to Yamaha's cross plane technology and, um, that something something oil change, er, seen it on R1's, it'll be fine after a service. Nope, but nice try.

Yamaha had it themselves for a month and a half to look at the stalling. I never got any actual reports, but they said they tested it, serviced it, changed several parts and found nothing. I had it back about 4 minutes before it stalled again, so I'd have to be very dubious about what I was told, I just can;t see it. It used to do it 2 or 3 times a day, they reckoned in 40+ days it never did it? Absurd.

I've learned to ride it to avoid the stalling now. Have to make sure it gets a good handful before pulling away, and don't blip the throttle when coming to a stop.

The clutch still slips though. The solution to that is to let the clutch go at about 4,000 revs with the front brake jammed on after starting it from cold. It shudders and slips for about a second, then settles down.

To be honest, if anything else broke, I wouldn't waste my time going back. The warranty isn't worth a penny. The bike is a tool, when it needs changing I will not be remotely sad to see it go.

 

[CVSensei]

No video. I did get the mechanic at the shop telling me the dodgy clutch was due to Yamaha's cross plane technology and, um, that something something oil change, er, seen it on R1's, it'll be fine after a service. Nope, but nice try.

Yamaha had it themselves for a month and a half to look at the stalling. I never got any actual reports, but they said they tested it, serviced it, changed several parts and found nothing. I had it back about 4 minutes before it stalled again, so I'd have to be very dubious about what I was told, I just can;t see it. It used to do it 2 or 3 times a day, they reckoned in 40+ days it never did it? Absurd.

I've learned to ride it to avoid the stalling now. Have to make sure it gets a good handful before pulling away, and don't blip the throttle when coming to a stop.

The clutch still slips though. The solution to that is to let the clutch go at about 4,000 revs with the front brake jammed on after starting it from cold. It shudders and slips for about a second, then settles down.

To be honest, if anything else broke, I wouldn't waste my time going back. The warranty isn't worth a penny. The bike is a tool, when it needs changing I will not be remotely sad to see it go.

That really is a tragedy mate.

Do you know how they tested it? Not just running it on dyno or something? If that's the case and it really didn't trigger when they had it then it would probably be easier to narrow down the problem.

Did you ever adjust the idle speed?

 

[Kiwi]

Here are my thoughts after reading briefly through this thread:

IF the bolt (sump plug) was fitted and torqued when the sump case was warm/hot, and you applied torque to the bolt, it could crack. This could be because the case is warm, and subject to thermal expansion. As the cooling process begins the bolt shrinks in both diameter and length. This lengthwise shrinkage magnifies the tension you applied during the torquing process. Additionally, the case cools down and contracts around the bolt. This stress would cause a crack like the one pictured above. Lastly, the bolt is lacking a crush washer. I don't think this is a contributing factor, because you said you didn't apply much force (if you felt resistance prior to the bolt "bottoming" on the case, then it's likely to have contributed).However, these stresses are encountered during most oil changes, and are the reason that the sump plug should never be over-torqued.

It's my opinion that the crack already existed because your oil light came on (assuming there are no other leaks). When you torque a cracked thread, it opens up. It will now look worse than it was, even though the crack length is the same.

I think you're in a bit of a pickle, because you changed your oil yourself, and cannot prove that you didn't influence the outcome. If I was in your position, I would refit the crush washer (to eliminate that from their reasons to reject you claim), and remind them that you performed the task in accordance with Yamaha specified procedures, and the oil had already leaked out (because the crack was already there).

Worst case scenario: You have to buy a new sump case, gasket, oil, crush washer and pay for some labour. Your bike is not ruined and is completely repairable, with no long term damage done.

CVSensei, is this issue resolved?

 

[tw586]

the root and peak clearance on threads allows for different material and cooling rates of bolts and holes. engineers worked this out hundreds of years ago, but a nice thought though, most likely cause was a floor in the casting or the machine tap cutting the thread micro fractured the casing during manufacture. only time I have seen this type of failure is tensioning a tapered thread into a parallel threaded hole, like an oil pressure switch.

 

[CVSensei]

Hi Kiwi,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, the engine was hot at the time so that might be the cause. Turns out the oil light was a standard thing, it only lit up when i switched the bike on, it would disappear upon ignition.

Luckily Yamaha accepted my warranty claim ^^ see previous page so is all good in the proverbial hood.

A few people think it was just Yamaha playing the long game and trying to keep a new customer, which does make sense! Who knows what Yamaha will have out when it's time to move on but so far I'll be going to MV Agusta next

 

[Kiwi]

Hi Kiwi,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, the engine was hot at the time so that might be the cause. Turns out the oil light was a standard thing, it only lit up when i switched the bike on, it would disappear upon ignition.

Luckily Yamaha accepted my warranty claim ^^ see previous page so is all good in the proverbial hood.

A few people think it was just Yamaha playing the long game and trying to keep a new customer, which does make sense! Who knows what Yamaha will have out when it's time to move on but so far I'll be going to MV Agusta next

I'm glad it all ended well for you!

 

[Eddieh93]

Too right you should have it covered under warranty that should not be cracking!