Torque wrench?


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osothebear

New member
Hello fellow riders!!!
I need a bit of advice and I think you might help , I just got the T-Rex frame sliders and engine cases for my 1015 FZ07 but was wondering if I should use a torque wrench to screw the screws back in on the frame and case, I though just a normal socket wrench and some ''common sense'' will do but then again it might not, I've never used a Torque wrench and I'm not sure what are the specification to re screw the case , any ideas?
Thanks!!!!
Oso
 

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sdrio

New member
I've been pulling bikes apart and putting them back together for over 30 years, and have never used a torque wrench. Nothing has ever broken or fallen off.

One big caveat - other than my 50cc moped, I have never removed a cylinder head, and if I ever did, I would use one for that.

I think common sense works. This is obviously reckless advice, but if it was me, I wouldn't bother.

Having said that, a torque wrench isn't that expensive, and busting a bolt could cost as much as the wrench to fix.
 
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Noggie

New member
I bought one for doing my engine mounts when attaching my sliders.
Torque is 40ft.lbs or 55nm.
A torque wrench is not that expensive, in my country I can get them from around €30. Just check out hardware stores or car utility stores.
 
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nobull

New member
Second for what sdrio said. I've bought cheap & teng torque wrenches - I had to return the first teng one as not working, the second one was allowing too much pressure for the stated torque so I sold it on a couple of years later. Ultimately its best to look at what you are inserting into what, ie steel into alloy will stand a lot less torque for example. The longer the threaded length, the deeper and coarser the thread (ie higher pitch), the greater the torque you can apply. Always bear in mind removal, its all very well making sure something is secure, but you don't want it snapping off when inserting or removing, and the tighter a broken thread is inserted the harder it will be to extract. Some things are extremely critical as sdrio said, and for these a torque wrench is advisable, but they are pretty few & far between. That's my opinion at least, hope it helps (ps if i'd kept using my expensive teng torque wrench something was going to shear, hence selling).
 
bobh

bobh

Member
I never used to bother, but since working on Yamahas with their fine pitch threads I decided it's best to play safe and use a torque wrench for the more critical stuff, such as anything that goes into the engine, where a stripped thread would be ££££, or with a safety implication, e.g. caliper bolts.

I have a cheap Draper 1/2" one, which is great for things like axle and swingarm nuts (a mate has an even cheaper one from Lidl, which is just as good - calibrating the two together they give very close readings). I also recently got a Sealey 3/8 one from Demon Tweeks - it's good for caliper bolts, drain plugs, engine bolts (when fitting crash bungs) etc. Tbh, if you're using a socket set and ratchet anyway, using the torque wrench instead of a normal ratchet is a bit of a no-brainer.

I don't try to use the torque wrench on fasteners like screen screws and things where feel is probably more important.
 
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Noggie

New member
It's 50ft.lbs on the engine mounts.
The torque will vary depending on the bolt, thread and lubed or not.

The mt07 manual can be found online and it contains the torque spec on the different bolts in a table.

When buying a torque wrench try to get the torque you are to torque in the middle of the range of the wrench as they tend to be most accurate in the middle 1/3 or the range. I got one from 10-100ft.lbs
The one you look at from 10-150 will probably be the most accurate from 50-100ft.lbs
Ralph's one from 40-200nm will probably not be very accurate around 55nm.

The reason why you should use a torque wrench is that you will probably over torque the bolt if done without.

I used to be an aircraft tech, so I know the importance of correct torque, during my apprentship I also worked on calibrating and recertification of the torque wrenches we used.
But on aircrafts there was always a window of torque I.e 55-65ft-lbs, and you would set your wrench to 60.
So I find it a bit strange that Yamaha has a very specific torque listed on the bike, but I assume that it's not all that critical.
The inaccuracy of the above mentioned torque wrenches should be within acceptable tolerances.
 
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osothebear

New member
Dudes you are awesome, thanks for all the help! so I loom on Amazon a bit more and I found this one , it's a 3/8 between 10 and 80 Foot Pound Torque , that one should do the trick right?
 
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Noggie

New member
osothebear said:
Dudes you are awesome, thanks for all the help! so I loom on Amazon a bit more and I found this one , it's a 3/8 between 10 and 80 Foot Pound Torque , that one should do the trick right?
Click to expand...
sounds like a good choice, what you could do is check what torque your wheel nuts (car) has and get a wrench that covers that too.
for most regular cars the torque is 100-110nm which is 74-81ft-lbs, might be higher on large SUV's, pick-up trucks etc, so it depends on what vehicle you have. Looks like this one will be good for most reglar family sedans, minivans and station-wagons.

Also remember this. once used you need to set the setting back to zero torque, do not leave it at the torque you used or normally use. these wrenches typically operate on spring pressure, and not relaxing the spring will throw out the calibration of the wrench.
 
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