How to... Install heated grips WITH relay


Igor

New member
I bought a set of oxford hot grips for the MT and have seen alot of people wiring them (and other makes) straight to the battery. The oxford premium grips do have a battery save function where they switch off if the battery voltage goes low or the detect no "noise" on the electrical supply which suggests the engine is not running.

However I don't trust this function and I've been stranded before with a dead battery and bump starting is not something I'm good at so I wired in a relay into the hot grips power supply to switch off when the ignition is off. It's really easy to do and put together a how to on it here.

First off is to install the grips which is simple and I won't talk about that here as it's just to take off the old grips and put the new hot grips on with the glue supplied ensuring the cables are in the right position and there's no fouling (especially with the throttle grip!)

Then fit the controller where you want it to be. I put mine on the screen fixing point as I have no space on the handlebars due to the huge mobile phone mount I've put on (not shown)
Controller close.jpg
controller and grips.jpg

Once in place you can connect the grips to the controller and tidy away cables, I routed mine to behind the left hand fairing behind the regulator/rectifier and cable tied them in place.

You need to remove rider seat and left hand fairing to access battery and the auxiliary power socket. I struggled to find the aux power socket as it's hidden really well, you need to kneel down and look under the regulator. you'll see a white connector that looks like one part is fixed to the wiring loom. If you pull out the male part you'll see the that 2 wires go into the male part you just pulled out but there's nothing in the female part (no connectors or wires) which is taped into the wiring loom.

Picture below shows after I pulled out the male part
Aux close.jpg
Aux far.jpg

I cut off the male part and connected the two wires into a screwed terminal block (as I didn't have any other spare connectors and it was Sunday so the shops were closed...)
Aux connector.jpg
Aux position.jpg

This aux connector has two wires into it a black/white wire which is negative and a red/yellow wire which is positive. This positive is switched by the ignition, so it is only live when ignition is in the ON position. See attached extract of wiring diagram.
Wiring.jpg

The aux socket is number 88 on the bottom left, follow the red/yellow line up and you'll see it is fed from fuse number 6, which is switched by the ignition item 1 on drawing.

This aux supply will be used to switch the relay on and off with the ignition.

Next I installed the relay on the plastic tray the regulator is connected to, there's space there to bolt it in place. My relay was a 30A standard auto relay as shown below:-
Relay picture.jpg

I wired from the aux socket positive to pin 85 on the relay and the aux socket negative to pin 86. so now the relay switches with the ignition. I tested the relay and the coil draws on 0,1A so you can still use the aux socket to power other things (like I have)

The power cable from the hot grips controller need to run to under the rider seat to connect to the battery, but do not connect it yet. The power cable has a negative and a positive wire. The negative does not need to be cut, but you need to identify which wire is the positive and cut that wire.

Then it's just to connect the positive wire ends to pins 30 and 87 on the relay.
Relay.jpg

Once those connections are made you can connect the power cable to the battery + and - (checking the grips positive is fused! if it does not have a fuse then you MUST fit one as close to the battery as possible)

Tidy up and secure all the wires with cable ties to ensure nothing vibrates loose. Note that although this area of the bike is pretty much sheltered from the elements by the side panels I still used self amalgamating tape on my connector block to be sure to keep water out, the oxford connectors didn't need this and I orientated the relay so the likelihood of water getting on the pins was low. I've been out is all sorts of weather and everything works perfectly.

This will mean that you can never leave the grips on when the bike is off, avoiding that awful moment when you have to try to bump start the bike.
 

spencer

New member
why make it so complicated with a relay? just run the live wire from the grips to a fused live so when ignition is switched on you get power to the grips ignition off no power to grips.
 

Igor

New member
I had originally thought of doing that. However I did not do this for two reasons.

1. Full load on the grips is 4A. The existing fuses could blow under some circumstances if you have the grips at 100% and the rxisting fused circuit is highly loaded.

2. Accessing the existing wiring is tricky and messy.
 

sdrio

New member
whether or not to use a relay has nothing to do with the battery going flat. You just have to wire into a circuit that is only live when the ignition is on, and the problem is solved.

By the way, when they say the grips 'detect low voltage and automatically swith off', it's true but they detect the low voltage well past the point the battery can start the bike, so you still can't wire direct to the battery.

A set of hotgrips draws about 3 or 4 amps, there's no need to use a relay. Mine are wired to the back light, have done that on 3 different bikes over 7 years, and never had a problem.
 

Igor

New member
LOL, trust an engineer to over complicate things!

Oh well my techie side enjoyed doing the mods and it worked without cutting into any existing wiring so my hands were toasty warm this morning.

Guess the next bike I'll take an easier route.
 

foxracer

New member
Thanks for the thorough write up igor!

I installed a fuse block under the seat, which take a switched and live feed and then allows me to run up to 6 accessories, each having a fuse and either switched or permanently live
 

Igor

New member
Seen the fuseblock, handy if you have lots of extras.

Ive no space under the seat as I've got a larger toolkit, lock and puncture kit there
 

Gaz2212

New member
Igor
You are definitely right to install the relay, just connecting into original switched wiring feeds can, and I stress can cause problems, manufacturers fuse the different circuits on there bikes to suit the current draw of the load at the end of the wiring and also wire their bikes with the correct gauge wiring to again suit the load at the end of the circuit, I have seen it so many times on cars where people have connected quite a heavy gauge cable onto a smaller cable and you can guess the outcome, the thing to look for as a simple guide is if the accessory that you are fitting uses heavier gauge wire than what you are connecting to problems may occur, they may still occur even if the two wire sizes are equal,
My advice unless you categorically know that the load of your accessory can be supported by the wiring you are connecting into fit it as you have done with a relay, this then takes all the load of the vehicle wiring, the most load you will be putting on the vehicle is 250mA which is approx. the current draw of the relay coil when it pulls in
I would fit as you have done every time
 

bypasser

Member
Thanks for the very detailed write up Igor. Very much appreciated. I've marked thread as favourite for future reference.
 
D

Deleted member 20

Guest
I always install a relay as well. I like the Hella relay with built in fuse socket, then I connect all my add-ons like aux LED lights, heated grips, GPS cradle harness, 12V or 5V USB charger sockets etc. via that one relay/fuse.
View attachment 2257
 


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