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  1. #1
    Senior Member cosmikdebriis's Avatar
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    Yamaha MT 07
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    How To... Fit Arrow Exhaust (shortie Style)

    Okay. This follows on from my previous thread "How to... Exhaust System Removal".

    General overview...

    In this thread I show how I chose to fit the Arrow exhaust system but without the centre/extension pipe. I preferred this to the manufacturers system.

    Some of the procedures are the reverse of the removal so you may want to refer to that thread before attempting this one.

    I have included two methods for mounting the silencer. One is quick and simple requiring no additional parts. The second is (in my opinion) better but does require some 8mm (M8) studding and some (preferably) Nyloc nuts to suit.

    The second method has the advantage of the silencer being properly rubber mounted and is relatively easily adjustable to suit your requirements.

    You will need...

    10mm, 12mm, 13mm, sockets, Extension bar (preferably a wobble bar). Open ended/ring spanners of the same size. 6mm Allen key. Hack saw. "Coppaslip" or similar. NEVER be tempted to use grease where I mention Coppaslip. Some Coppaslip (or similar) is supplied in a sachet in one of the plastic bags.

    Also, for second method. 200mm length of 8mm (M8) studding. 6 off M8 nyloc nuts (or ordinary nuts and star washers). Some patience.

    The Disclaimer...

    The following is just a guide and is the method I chose. Other methods may be better. I will not accept any responsibility for any damage caused to you, your bike, your mate or anyone or anything that may get damaged. Do this entirely at your own risk and please consider any implications this may have on any warranty or insurance(s) If in doubt... Don't do it at all. Note: There is no provision for a catalytic converter in this system.

    How To in pictures...

    Picture 1...
    Showing complete exhaust system as arrived in the boxes. (There are optional silencers available though I would assume the same mounting methods would apply).
    A) and B) the down pipes.
    C) The collector pipe.
    D) The extension pipe (Not used)
    E) The Silencer.
    F) The silencer mounting strap.
    Also two plastic bags of bits that we will need some of and a black mounting bracket that we do not need.


    Picture 2...
    Remove blanking plug supplied (This is where your Lambda sensor fits). Assuming you have one.


    Picture 3...
    As I chose not to disconnect the Lambda Sensor on removal of the original exhaust. Now is a good time to screw it in to the collector by rotating the collector. (see removal thread) Use some Coppaslip sparingly on the threads to aid removal at a later date. DO NOT use grease.


    Picture 4...
    Connect front (down) pipes (reversal of removal. See previous thread). Note: The pipes appear to be different/handed but I couldn't easily find a way of identifying them so it will be trial and error I'm afraid. It's pretty obvious if you get it right though.
    Don't forget the two round gaskets from the original system. It may help to put a bit of Coppaslip on them to "glue" them in to the cylinder head. (not too much though). Do not fully tighten the M8 (12mm spanner) nuts as yet.
    Loosely place the collector pipe on the down pipes (Do not fit the springs yet).
    Last edited by cosmikdebriis; 06-15-2014 at 11:12 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member cosmikdebriis's Avatar
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    Picture 5...

    Fit the silencer mounting strap. Making the runbber gasket fit correctly can be a bit fiddly. You will need to trim it to suit. Exactly where this fits on the silencer will depend on where you mount it so, for now, just wrap it lightly around the silencer.






    Silencer Mounting Method 1 (The simple method)

    Picture 6...
    It is possible to mount the silencer directly to the frame by just bolting it to the lowest hole (see picture) The disadvantage is that it is not rubber mounted so may suffer from vibration.


    Picture 7...
    Showing the spacer (found in one of the plastic bags) so that the silencer does not hit the swinging arm.


    Picture 8...
    Showing assembly fitted. Note: The mounting bracket will twist as you do it up as it doesn't line up properly. Shouldn't really be a problem though.
    Last edited by cosmikdebriis; 06-15-2014 at 11:11 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member cosmikdebriis's Avatar
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    Silencer mounting Method 2 Slightly harder but better (in my opinion)

    Overview...

    In this method we use the two original rubber mounting brackets (left on the silencer in the How to Remove thread). Simply mount these back on to the bike frame. We then use a piece of studding through the mountings to mount the silencer to. this has the advantage of rubber mounting the silencer and being more easily adjusted.

    It would be possible to use only one of the original rubber mounting brackets but I felt you would get better support by using both. You decide.

    Picture 9...
    Showing original mounting brackets "A" with a 200mm long piece of M8 studding "B" secured by nyloc (and/or plain with star washers) to secure studding in place. Note: The excess studding should protrude out of the brake pedal side of the bike as this is where we are going to mount the silencer. If you make the studding too long, you will not be able to re mount the brake pedal assembly but if it is too short then the silencer may hit the swinging arm. I found 200mm to be the best length.


    Picture 10...
    You may need to put a slight bend (downwards) in the studding to stop the silencer fouling both the frame and the swinging arm. (Trial and error I'm afraid).


    Picture 11...
    Showing method of spacing silencer away from the swinging arm using two nyloc nuts (and washers). (Again. Trial and error I'm afraid)
    Last edited by cosmikdebriis; 06-15-2014 at 11:30 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member cosmikdebriis's Avatar
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    Finishing off...

    Having made sure nothing is rubbing/hitting we can now go ahead and tighten all nuts and bolts. Don't forget front pipe nuts (use some Coppaslip on the threads) and the Lambda Sensor.

    Re fit the brake plate (see removal thread)

    Fire up the bike and listen for any rattles/unexpected noises then go for a short test run and check again.

    When satisfied continue...

    Picture 10....

    Showing mounting springs and tool supplied (in the plastic bags).


    Picture 11...

    Showing springs attaching front(down) pipes and collector box. Note: I found the spring was too long for the connection between collector box and silencer so will sort something later. not a big problem as it's not going to fall off.


    Job done... Enjoy.

    Please feel free to post any constructive criticism.

    Picture 12...

    My bike with exhaust fitted.
    Last edited by cosmikdebriis; 06-15-2014 at 11:07 AM.

  5. #5
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    Well done sir and excellent documentation!

  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    Great job

  7. #7
    Junior Member
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    MT 07 - Red - ABS
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    Very nice indeed.

    I'd prefer some rubber aswell to catch the vibration, so using the OEM is a good solution. I'm not too keen about bending it though. Maybe there is a way to lower it entirely ? So basicly put a little piece of metal between the frame and the exhaust mounts? Just expressing some thoughts. Might have a different idea when I try it myself. But still not quite sure: Akra or Arrow

    Anyways, thx for the effort!

  8. #8
    Senior Member cosmikdebriis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeanMachine View Post
    Very nice indeed.

    I'd prefer some rubber aswell to catch the vibration, so using the OEM is a good solution. I'm not too keen about bending it though. Maybe there is a way to lower it entirely ? So basicly put a little piece of metal between the frame and the exhaust mounts? Just expressing some thoughts. Might have a different idea when I try it myself. But still not quite sure: Akra or Arrow

    Anyways, thx for the effort!
    I wasn't exactly keen on it myself, but the silencer is not very heavy so I don;t think it will be a problem. I'm considering using a bit of 8mm stainless bar with a spacer between the rubber mounts and cutting my own threads but I'm not sure it really needs to be any more complicated.

    Also the idea was to show a method that was both suitable but also manageable without resource to anything too complicated for the "average" owner. Personally I think it fits both criteria though I'd agree there are probably better engineered methods. I should add that with the brake plate fitted it's invisible to anyone who you haven't just run over.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
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    haha, I hope nobody is that desperate to see it then!

  10. #10
    Member
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    I have to say I much prefer this short arrow fitting over the Akra myself. Had looked at the "easy" way as you put it and it seemed like a bit of a botch job to me, I see no problem with bending the threaded rod at all, the system doesn't weigh that much and that bar will easily take the weight.

    However I had wondered if the rubber bracket could be bolted to the 2 lower holes instead of the original 2 holes, this would lower the mounting point so you wouldn't have to bend the rod (assuming the distance C/C is the same) but that might make the silencer too low?

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